In their youth, I preferred the '95 Cabernet to the Shiraz in Roennfeldt's, and I'm guilty of the same preference this year, although the vintages are quite different in style. This version's shy and withdrawing for the vineyard, but I think it'll still be the better of the tow '96s with time and patience. It's perfectly mannered and homogenous, time and air giving rise to a slightly acrid, leafy top note, as if that mid-range of the bouquet, which is pure bilberrry flan with cream, needed a sharpening garnish. Right from the start of the palate, you're in immaculate luxury. The wine has such confounding depth and complexity, serious viscosity and gravity, that it comes as surprise when its vapors begin to leap off the tongue, into your breath and lungs. For a while it already has the profound weight and authority of a great sage, it's also perfectly fresh and youthfully vibrant. The flavors are textbook lesson in what Cabernet leafiness is all about. There are the deep green blackberry briars tangled with the pickled vine leaves of dolmades, but with the viscosity, and depth of sweet fruit to balance it and ensure constant delight and satisfaction over many, many years. The wine finishes with savory, puckery tannins, but remains elegant while intense, and beautifully balanced.