This wine, just quietly, is a knockout. Brace your palates, pour a glass and watch it transform. It looks tense, and sarsaparilla-esque at first, hurling briary spice, dusty bark and bitters at you from a trampoline of dense spicy fruit (it is in fact Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec sourced from the Wendouree Vineyard). With a little time in contact with the air it recalls some of its sangfroid and appears more well behaved and leathery, with a cedary top-note.