Raveneau. Coche-Dury. Grange Des Peres. Peter Michael. I love white wine and these are my favorites. I'm as serious as a heart attack when I say Nicholson River belongs in this group. Owner and winemaker Ken Eckersly is brilliant, that rare winemaker who has a distinct style, knows his vineyard and possesses innate talent. Ken tells me that Gippsland, the sub-region where his chardonnay vineyard is located, has the longest growing season for chardonnay in the world. The result is otherworldly concentration and texture with scintillating acid and balance.